When I was a kid, around 5-6 years old, I went to the zoo with my family and saw a hippo for the first time in my life. Wanting to sound smart or just say something deep-ish I whispered in awe ‘That hippo has wild eyes’. To my five-year-old self it sounded very insightful. My parents thought it was hilarious and still remind me of my ‘wild-eyed hippo’ comment every now and then. Little do they know that hippos do have wild eyes. Especially if you see them at night.
This is probably going to be a short story but sometimes short is good. So, have I told you guys the story of how I got cornered by a hippo? No, I haven’t. I know that for a fact which is why I don’t really understand why I’m even asking. The story takes place in St Lucia, South Africa. It was still our first week into the trip but we’d already seen a lot of places and been to different cities. Most of them were pretty European looking places though and I still felt like I hadn’t seen real Africa at all. That was until we arrived in St Lucia - this small, quiet town on the shore of a lake with the same name. It looked much more rustic, chaotic and exotic than any other town we’d been to so far and I loved it.
It had been a long day when our group arrived there and we were all getting ready for the safari that was supposed to take place on the following day. As we were driving into the city I noticed two things. First, the river which was inhabited by a colony of hippos. As we drove over the bridge I saw their heads sticking out of the muddy water and got excited about seeing them up close. After the safari we were supposed to attend a short boat cruise to get even closer to them. The second thing I noticed was the sign: ‘beware of hippos at night’.
I have to admit it sounded funny to me. It looked funny to me. Imagining a bunch of chubby hippos sneaking around in the middle of the night singing the ‘Spider-hippo’ song (which is just the Spiderman theme song with the word ‘man’ replaced with ‘hippo’… I think you all get it anyways but just in case…). Okay, I know hippos are one of the biggest killers in Africa after men and mosquitoes, but they’re just so… cute. They’re fat and have tiny little legs and tiny ears… Sure they are also big, strong and scary but they’re still… just so darn cute!
The same night, after snapping a picture of the ‘oh-so-funny’ sign, I had an… encounter. It all started when I got a bit peckish in the evening. It was raining outside and it was already dark so I didn’t actually want to go and find a restaurant. I just wanted a light snack or something like that. There was a gas station right next to the hotel, about 50 m away from the front door so I figured I’d just run there and get like a bag of chips or something. It was a pretty solid plan. I didn’t even think about hippos at that moment.
So, I headed down and ran through the rain to the gas station, only to discover that it was closed. Thankfully there was a tiny cafe in the same building and its doors were wide open. I stepped inside without further thought. There was a cashier behind the counter and someone in the kitchen but other than that it was completely empty. I ordered a sandwich to go and the cashier told me I would have to wait for max 5 minutes. That sounded alright with me. There was nothing to do but I could just sit for a little while and enjoy the sound of falling rain.
As I was waiting for my sandwich I stepped toward the door and took a look outside. It was still raining and it was pretty dark outside. There were no people around and even the parking lot was completely empty except for a random hippo statue in the middle of it.
‘That’s strange,’ I thought, ‘I don’t remember there being a hippo statue here before. Why didn’t I notice it before? Also, who the hell would put a hippo statue in the middle of a random parking lot?’
My brain froze for a second before I realised. Oh shit… that wasn’t a statue!
The moment I realised that was also the moment the hippo turned its head and took a long look at me. I felt cold panic slowly rising in the pit of my stomach. I took a few steps back and went to the counter where the cashier was minding her own business.
‘So… In case of hippo… what should I do?’ I asked the cashier (and yes, those were my exact words).
‘Hippo?’ The cashier looked confused.
‘Yeah, there’s one in the parking lot.’
Her eyes went wide as she looked toward the place I was pointing to. She leaned over the counter to get a better look, then yelled out something to the cook in Afrikaans, then took another look at the hippo and got out her phone.
‘Oh, don’t worry: you’re safe inside. Just don’t go out right now,’ she said eventually and then promptly went to the door and started taking pictures of the animal.
Okay then. Don’t go out - that was sound advice. Especially because the hippo was right between me and the hotel so if I wanted to get back I would have to pass it pretty close. So I took a seat and waited and looked on as the casher finished taking pictures of the hippo only to be replaced by the cook who wanted his own photo evidence. I got my sandwich but it was of little comfort because I still couldn’t leave. The hippo was just standing there in one place, sometimes looking at the cafe with wild eyes and then looking into the darkness. Now, hippos are vegetarians but if they get pissed off they can wreck your shit with little effort. And they move fast. Fun fact: hippos don’t really swim but walk in the water with their feet on the bottom. So on land, where there’s no resistance from the water, they are fast and deadly and can move up to 30 km/h. That’s faster than most cars on a cobblestone road.
I think I must have waited for maybe fifteen minutes until the hippo decided that he’d had enough of the parking lot. It stepped over the small brick wall separating the parking lot from the park next to it and took a bunch of bricks with as it did that. After it had vanished into the night there was a hippo shaped hole in the brick wall. I took it as a sign that it was time for me to leave. I grabbed my sandwich and headed to the door.
‘By the way, hippos sometimes travel in couples so just be careful - there might be another one close by,’ the cashier told me as I was leaving.
Oh great! That sounded awesome! But I was sick and tired of waiting and I just wanted to get to the hotel that had a big ass stone wall around the perimeter. I took off running and was at the door less than a minute later. I’d moved faster than expected and thankfully not encountered any other wild life. Suddenly I felt more alive than I had for a long time. It was the adrenaline, I guess. I crashed into my hotel room yelling ‘I just survived a hippo attack!!!’ even though I knew it wasn’t remotely the case.
The next time I saw the ‘Beware of hippos at night’ sign I wasn’t laughing anymore. I still stand by what I said: hippos are kind of cute. But they’re cute when they’re in the water. Far, far away from you. And preferably asleep. But something good came out of it after all: out of all the people in my travel group I have the most unique hippo experience and that’s something.













